BY ANDI | October 30, 2011
BY ANDI | September 12, 2011
Debra Pivko, beauty writer for Beachbody Beauty Blog came and interviewed me on the Sulfate Debate!
Believe it or not– there is more to your shampoo than just suds.
Check it out!
BY ANDI | September 07, 2011
BY ANDI | September 03, 2011
BY ANDI | September 01, 2011
Someone asked me a question recently, and for the first time, the answer wasn’t right on the tip of my tongue.
“I know they are supposed to be bad for us, but what ARE sulfates, exactly? And so what if they are in my shampoo?”
I decided to do a little digging and share what I’ve learned…
THE GREAT SULFATE DEBATE
What are Sulfates anyway?
Sulfates, to be simple, are detergents. A surfactant (or lathering agent) is an essential part of the cleansing system. But not all surfactants are created equal! Anyone who has washed their clothes in a cheap powdered laundry detergent, versus a color-safe liquid detergent with fabric softener, can attest to the tangible difference.
Several different derivatives exist, which makes it hard for the consumer to know which is which. One would think that, like “food grade” ingredients, someone would regulate the kind of surfactant used in body products, and what we could find in a mechanics shop. As it stands, that level of discretion is left to the manufacturer, which makes it possible for a consumer to pick up an inexpensive bottle of shampoo at any superstore and walk over to the automotive department and pick up a bottle of garage floor cleaner and recognize the same key ingredient in both.
Well, what’s the difference?
There are two common types of surfactants: Sulfates, and Sulfonates.
Sulfates are the nasty ones. A known carcinogen, sulfates are derived from lye and animal fats. They are harsh and drying, irritate skin, and strip hair color (both natural and artificial). Sulfates are extremely alkaline, similar on the pH scale to products used often in dish soaps, heavy duty cleansers, and in tanning of animal skins (to remove hair!).
Sulfonates, in contrast, are acidic. A cousin, of sorts, to sulfates, these surfactants are derived from coconut oil. They are very mild and used primarily in products formulated for babies. They are considerably more expensive to mass produce, which is why drugstore shampoos don’t use them. Pureology, the leader in serious colour care, has been utilizing these powerful natural alternatives before being “sulfate-free” was cool. A leader in innovative technology, Pureology uses coconut, sugar, and corn to create their rich, decadent (and guaranteed color safe!) lathers in their shampoos. They contain no animal products or by-products or petrol chemical derivatives. Their signature Zero-Sulfate formulas have spurred a health-conscious movement throughout the beauty industry.
Why should I care what my shampoo’s pH is?
Hair naturally has a pH of 4.5-5.5, which makes it slightly acidic (neutral is 7). Sodium Laurel Sulfate is very alkaline, having a pH of up to 10, which is clear on the other end of the scale.
Think about this: The outside of the hair shaft, called the cuticle, resembles shingles on a roof. When permanent color is deposited into the hair shaft, those shingles are opened slightly, and then the dye molecules are inserted, and the hair will naturally return to its pH of 4.5-5.5 in about 72 hours. Some color lines, like Redken Shades EQ, are themselves acidic on the pH scale. So when your stylist offers a toner, or gloss, or glaze as part of your color service, they are offering you a much more secure deposit and retention of your color by returning the hair cuticle to its natural pH and smoothing those “shingles” back down immediately. Pureology’s leave-in conditioning treatment and detangler, ColourMax, actually has a pH of 3.5, securing the retention of your hair color every day.
Now consider this: What happens when we have too much salt? We swell up, right? For reference, the salt content of the ocean is 3.3-3.8%. An inexpensive bottle of drugstore shampoo can contain up to 7% salt. So if you then go home and use a over-the-counter shampoo, which, being alkaline (the opposite of a cuticle-closing acidic pH), will open the cuticle back up, allowing your gorgeous hair color investment to literally wash out of your hair and down the drain. Over time, this causes the deterioration of natural pigment as well. Any natural brunettes with light, brassy ends can attest that!
What…and Why should I buy?
If you ask this professional, the health concerns surrounding sulfates will re-create the chemical compounds our industry is built on. But if that doesn’t resonate with you, think of it this way: would you ever pay a pretty penny for a party dress, and then launder it in dish-soap? Why would you treat your hair, the accessory you never take off, with less care and consideration? Do yourself and your hair a favor – try the difference of a Zero-Sulfate shampoo. You’re backed by Pureology’s promise: Longer lasting colour or your money back, guaranteed!
